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Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Mae hong son


Mae Hong Son is a truly isolated frontier town, about five hours drive over unimaginable mountain passes North of Chiang Mai, and lies in a pretty valley, far away from the rest of Thailand. The city is bordered by Myanmar to the north and west, and consequently incorporates a strong Burmese influence. Though the town itself is not particularly beautiful, it presents a number of enticing temples and fabulously scenic surrounds - with a pretty lake in its centre and a sleepy character.

Mae Hong Son's most dominant attraction is the temple of Phra That Doi Kong Mu, situated on a hill overlooking the city. The wat was commissioned by Mae Hong Son's first king, Phaya Singhanatracha, and affords lovely views over the city and its environs. From here you can see the pond - known as Nong Jong Kham, which creates a lovely spacious park in the city and is responsible for all the famous postcard images reflecting the distinctive temple on its edge.

Temples of interest include Wat Hua Wiang, containing a sacred image, and Wat Phra Non, which houses a massive Reclining Buddha statue in the Burmese style. Perhaps the most visited however is Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham, which sit beside the pond and display distinctive tiered roofs and tin filigree so typical of Burmese temples. These two are known for their impressive glass paintings depicting the life of Buddha, and over 30 wooden doll carvings that originated in Myanmar. The Chong Kham Pond was once a bathing pool for elephants, and is particularly impressive in the mist of early mornings, when it reflects the temple.

The long-necked Paduang women are big tourist draw card in Mae Hong Son.

The city's high street is Khunlum Phraphat road, and is flanked by handicraft outlets, restaurants, bars and tour companies. This is a prime place to pick up hill tribe textiles and antiques. Singhanat Bamrung road is distinguished by its traditional Shan teak wood houses, and the local crafts and fabrics that are sold in its stores.

The months of November and December are special in the Mae Hong Son area, due to the startlingly yellow wild sunflowers that smother the fields of Doi Mae U-Kho. If you happen to be in the area at this time of year, make a special effort to visit this colourful expanse - the golden blanket created by the blooming flowers is a truly wondrous vision. In early January there is a famous Shan novice monk parade, when young sons are dressed up, make up and all.

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