Him naam pai Resort

Sukhothai Kingdom

The Sukhothai kingdom was an early kingdom in the area around the city Sukhothai, in north central Thailand. The Kingdom existed from 1238 till 1438. The old capital, now 12 km outside of New Sukhothai in Tambon Mueang Kao, is in ruins and has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage historical park.

iberation from Lavo

Wat Si Sawai, Sukhothai Historical Park

Prior to the 13th century, Tai kingdoms had existed on the northern highlands including the Ngoen Yang (centered on Chiang Saen; predecessor of Lanna) kingdom and the Heokam (centered on Chiang Hung, modern Jinghong in China) kingdom of Tai Lue people. Sukhothai had been a trade center and part of Lavo, which was under the domination of the Khmer Empire. The migration of Tai people into upper Chao Phraya valley was somewhat gradual.

Modern historians stated that the secession of Sukhothai from the Khmer empire began as early as 1180 during the reign of Po Khun Sri Naw Namthom who was the ruler of Sukhothai and the peripheral city of Sri Satchanalai (now a part of Sukhothai Province as Amphoe). Sukhothai had enjoyed a substantial autonomy until it was re-conquered around 1180 by the Mons of Lavo under Khomsabad Khlonlampong.

Two brothers, Po Khun Bangklanghao and Po Khun Phameung (Po Khun was a Siamese title of high nobility) took Sukhothai from Mon hands in 1239. Bangklanghao ruled Sukhothai as Sri Inthraditaya – and began the Phra Ruang dynasty - he expanded his primordial kingdom to the bordering cities. At the end of his reign in 1257, the Sukhothai kingdom covered the entire Upper Chao Phraya valley.

Traditional Thai historians considered the foundation of the Sukhothai kingdom as the beginning of their nation because little was known about the kingdoms prior to Sukhothai. Modern historical studies demonstrate that Thai history began before Sukhothai. Yet the foundation of Sukhothai is still a celebrated event.
Wat Saphan Hin, Sukhothai Historical Park
Phra Achana, Wat Si Chum, Sukhothai Historical Park

Expansions under Ramkamhaeng

Po Khun Banmeaung and his brother Ramkhamhaeng expanded the Sukhothai kingdom at the expense of neighboring civilizations. For the first time a Tai state became a dominant power in Southeast Asia. To the south, Ramkamhaeng subjugated the kingdom of Supannabhum and Sri Thamnakorn (Tambralinga) and, through Tambralinga, adopted Theravada as state religion. Traditional history described the extension of Sukhothai in a great fashion and the accuracy of these claims is disputed. To the north Ramkamhaeng put Phrae, and Mueng Sua (Luang Prabang) under tribute.

To the west Ramkhamhaeng helped the Mons under Wareru (who is said to have eloped with Ramkamhaeng’s daughter) to free themselves from Pagan control and established a kingdom at Martaban (they later moved to Pegu). So, Thai historians considered the Kingdom of Martaban a Sukhothai tributary. However, in practice, such Sukhothai domination may not have extended that far.

On culture, Ramkhamhaeng requested the monks from Sri Thamnakorn to propagate the Theravada religion in Sukhothai. In 1283, the Thai script was invented by Ramkamhaeng, formulating into controversial Ramkamhaeng Stele discovered by Mongkut 600 years later. From the Stele is almost what we know about Sukhothai.

Ramkhamhaeng’s government characterized the governance of Sukhothai kingdom – the patrocracy – in which the king is considered “father” and people “children”. He also encouraged the free trade, stating those who wish to trade elephants, trade them then. Those who wish to trade horses, trade them then.

It was also his time that the first relation with Yuan dynasty was formulated and Sukhothai began sending trade missions to China. The well-known exported good of Sukhothai was the Sangkalok (i.e. Song dynasty pottery) – the only period that Siam produced Chinese-styled ceramics and fell out of use by the 14th century.

Decline and Domination of Ayutthaya

The Sukhothai domination was, however, short. After the death of Ramkhamhaeng, the Sukhothai tributaries broke away. Ramkhamhaeng was succeeded by his son Loethai. The vassal kingdoms, first Uttaradit in the north, then soon after the Laotian kingdoms of Luang Prabang and Vientiane (Wiangchan), liberated themselves from their overlord. In 1319 the Mon state to the west broke away, and in 1321 Lanna placed Tak, one of the oldest towns under the control of Sukhothai, under its control. To the south the powerful city of Suphanburi also broke free early in the reign of Loethai. Thus the kingdom was quickly reduced to its former local importance only. Meanwhile, Ayutthaya rose in strength, and finally in 1378 King Thammaracha II had to submit to this new power.
Replica of Silajaruek Pokhun Ramkhamhaeng

In 1378, the armies from Ayutthaya kingdom invaded and put Sukhothai under her tributary. Suffering the urban decline, Luethai moved the capital to Pitsanulok.

In 1424, after the death of Sailuethai, Paya Ram and Paya Banmeung the two brothers fought for the throne. Nagarindrathirat of Ayutthaya intervened and further divided the kingdom between the two. Their sister had married to Borommaracha II of Ayutthaya and produced a son, Prince Ramesuan. When Boromban died in 1446 without any heirs, the throne passed to Ramesuan or Trailokanat. Ramesuan was also crowned as the King of Ayutthaya in 1448, thus began the personal union between the Kingdom of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya.

The Silajaruek Sukhothai are hundreds of stone inscriptions that form a historical record of the period. Among the most important inscriptions are Silajaruek Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng (Stone Inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng), Silajaruek Wat Srichum (an account on history of the region itself and of Srilanka), and Silajaruek Wat Pamamuang (a Politico-Religious record of King Loethai).

The Kings of Sukhothai

* King Pho Khun Sri Indraditya (1249- 1257)
* King Pho Khun Ban Muang (1257 - 1277)
* King Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng (Ramkhamhaeng the Great) (ruled 1277 - 1298 or 1317) (called Rammaraj in the Ayutthaya chronicles)
* King Pu Phraya Si Songklam: After Ramkhamheang's death, ruled temporarily in absence of Loethai who was on trip to China. He was not styled Pho Khun. (Not counted as a King)
* King Pho Khun Loethai (1298 - 1347)
* King Pho Khun Nguanamthom (1347)
* King Phya Lithai or Thammaracha I (1347 - 1368/1374)
* King Thammaracha II or Phya Leuthai (1368/1374 - 1399)
* King Thammaracha III or Phya Saileuthai (1399 - 1419)
* King Thammaracha IV (1419 - 1438)

Comments: Sukhothai in Thai Historiography

Sukhothai story was narrated into Thailand's "national history" in late nineteenth century by King Mongkut,Rama IV, as a historical work presented to the British diplomatic mission. King Mongkut is considered as the champion of Sukhothai narrative history, based on his found of the Number One Stone Inscription, the 'first evidence' telling the history of Sukhothai.

From then on, as a part of modern nation building process, modern national Siamese or Thai history comprises the history of Sukhothai. Sukhothai was said to be the 'first national capital', followed by Ayutthaya, Thonburi until Rattanakosin or today Bangkok. Sukhothai history was crucial among Siam/ Thailand's 'modernists', both 'conservative' and 'revolutionary'. Rama IV or King Mongkut, was said he found 'the first Stone Inscription' in Sukhothai, telling story of Sukhothai's origin, heroic kings such as Ramkhamhaeng, administrative system and other developments, considered as the 'prosperous time' of the kingdom.

Sukhothai history became important even after the Revolution of 1932. Researches and writings on Sukhothai history were abundant. Details derived from the inscription were studied and 'theorized'. One of the most well-known topics was Sukhothai's 'democracy' rule. Story of the close relationship between king and his people, vividly described as 'father-son' relationship, the 'seed' of Thai Democracy. However the change in ruling style took place when later society embraced 'foreign' tradition, Khmer's Angkor tradition, influenced by Hinduism and 'mystic' Mahayana Buddhism. The story of Sukhothai became the model of 'freedom'. Jit Bhumisak, a 'revolutionary' scholar, also saw Sukhothai period as the beginning of Thai people's liberation movement from foreign ruler, Angkor.

During military rule, from 1950s, Sukhothai was placed in Thai national curriculum. Sukhothai became model of 'father-son' rule, described as 'Thai Democracy', free from 'foreign ideology'; Angkorian tradition compared to communism. Other Sukhothai aspects were investigated seriously, such as commoner and slave status, and economic situation. These topics, said, were on stage of ideological thoughts fighting during the Cold war and civil insurgency times in 1960-1970s.

Doi Wiang Pha National Park

Doi Wiang Pha National Park covers 583 square kilometers in the Chai Prakarn and Faang districts of Chiang Mai province. The Park has not yet officially been designated as a National Park and as such, currently, admission is free to both Thai and Farang visitors, although facilities are still limited.

The National Park’s topography consists of high mountains, the highest of which is Doi Wiang Pha at 1,834 meters, that extend along a south " north line which is regarded as the boundary between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai provinces. The Park is blanketed by a variety of fertile forests such as Evergreen, Pine and Mixed Deciduous and is the source of the Mae Faang River. Due to the abundance of the forests, varieties of plants and different altitudes of the areas (300-1,834 meters), the National Park hosts many different kinds of wild animals including Muntiacus Muntjak, Wild Boars, Gorals, Porcupines, Wild Rabbits, Monkeys, Masked Palm Civets, Squirrels and Tree Shrews. Several species of birds have been spotted in the area including White-Rumped Shama, Turtle Doves, Hawks, Red Junglefowl and White Fowls.

The best time to visit the National Park is the cool season from November to February. The rainy season is from May to October with the heaviest rain in September. It is advisable to call the Park (053-818 348) during these months as the Yot Doi Wiang Pha Nature Trail is officially closed from the 1st July until 31st October and access to other parts of the National Park may be restricted as well.

The National Park’s main attractions include Huay Zai Khao Waterfall (น้ำตกห้วยทรายขาว), located just 300 meters from the National Park Office (During the summer, the waterfall dries up), the 18 meters high Doi Wiang Pha Waterfall, located 8 kilometers from the National Park Office and the Mae Faang Luang Waterfall (น้ำตกแม่ฝางหลวง), which is situated 10 kilometers from the Hua Fai National Park Protection Unit.

Visitors can also hike up to the summit of Doi Wiang Pha for spectacular views of the surrounding areas. The viewpoint is situated 30 kilometers the Hua Fai National Park Protection Unit. Doi Wiang Pha National Park is located just off Highway 107 (Chiang Mai - Faang), about 125 kilometers north of Chiang Mai. Turn right at Baan Mae Khi (บ้านแม่ขิ) (Km.125) and the National Park’s Headquarters is 12 kilometers down a dirt track.

As the countryside north of Chiang Mai is so beautiful, I would recommend taking your time and adding in other attractions and there are a couple of good options, depending on whether you are on a day trip or overnight.

If you have just a day, why not combine the National Park with a visit to Chiang Dao. On the way northwards, I would suggest taking a quick excursion to see the countryside between Mae Rim and Mae Taeng. There is a small road on the left at Km. 18 on Highway 107 (Chiang Mai-Faang) just after crossing a small bridge. This back route will take you through rice fields, small farming villages and along a beautiful valley to join the Mae Taeng-Pai Road (Route 1095) at Km.8. A couple of kilometers before you reach the main road, there is a beautiful old Wat on the left with a courtyard and huge Yoba tree. The temple itself is several hundred years old and has lovely wall paintings inside and musty old holy books and relics. When you reach the Mae Taeng-Pai Road (Route 1095) make a right at the intersection and its 8 kilometers back to Highway 107 to continue north towards Chiang Dao.

Chiang Dao is a pleasant northern rural town with several boutique resorts and upscale restaurants. The major attractions are however the caves. These are well known in Thailand for their religious significance and legends. A well known Buddhist monk lived as a hermit in the caves and it is said that one could walk through the underground caverns all the way from Chiang Dao to Chiang Mai. The caves are located about 5 kilometers from the centre of town and the turn-off is well marked. Incidentally, if you are getting a bit peckish by now, there is an excellent Khao Soi noodle stand just after the turning towards the caves from the centre of town. At 10 baht a bowl, its delicious and they also make great deep-fried bananas.

The cave can be visited on your own and there is a nominal charge for up-keep and electricity. However, only the main cavern is lit so it is well worth hiring a guide with a lantern (about 100-150 baht per group) to show you around the less accessible and more interesting caverns filled with weird and wonderful shaped stalagmites and stalactites.

There are also numerous hilltribe villages along both the main roads and more often off the beaten track. This is an opportunity to see the Lisu, Karen, Hmong, Akha and Chinese cultures. You will generally need a 4-wheel drive vehicle to visit the more remote and less touristy villages especially during the rainy season.

If you have time to stay up North overnight, there is a beautiful route that keeps clear of the main 107 highway and takes you though stunning country scenery with hardly a car passing in either direction. Head out of Chiang Mai on Route 1001 which is the Chiang Mai-Phrao road. After about 45 kilometers you will see a signpost to Mae Ngud Reservoir (เขื่อนแม่งั") and Sri Lanna National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติศรีล้านนา) (Route 1323) " this makes a great side trip. At the dam there is a viewing point and long-tail services that can take you on a enjoyable ride on the reservoir. Carrying on along Route 1001 you will arrive in Phrao which is approximately 96 kms from Chiang Mai. Stop here for refreshments and a quick tour of the local market. From Phrao follow the signpost for Baan Ping Koang (บ้านปิงโค้ง) and Faang. After a few kilometers you will arrive at a checkpoint and a right turn leading to Route 1346 north towards Fang (if pressed for time you can continue along the Phrao-Ping Koang road (Route 1150) and hit the main 107 Highway North to Faang. If you take the scenic way on route 1346 you will be rewarded as you drive along a winding valley filled with Longan trees, small villages and hardly a car in sight. After 35 kms you will arrive at the junction with Highway 107 at Km. 118. Make a right and head northwards towards Baan Mae Khi (Km.125) and the National Park. This part of the highway is stunning "" jagged mountains covered in cloud loom as you wind your way though the hills.

You can visit the National Park and then continue up Highway 107 to Faang (Km. 150) which is a bustling centre of the local farming region where local hill tribe, Thai and Chinese cultures blend in the midst of northern Thai markets and shops. Tha Torn, just a few kilometers further north on Route 1089 stands in contrast. The small town-cum-village rests in a lush green valley with the Mae Kok River running through it. Buddhists Temples overlook the town from the surrounding three highest hills and boat rides can be organized all the way to Chiang Rai.

So whether you race straight up the highway to the national park or take a more leisurely trip to visit the surrounding countryside and attractions, I am sure you will agree that Northern Thailand has some of the most beautiful vistas in the land ""